Makemo Part Two

Makemo

After a few days anchored off the village we decided to sail west inside the atoll to find another anchorage. We had a great sail and found a nice place to anchor about 15 miles west. The next day we moved about two miles and anchored in front of a perfect south pacific beach.

Wonderful down wind sail:

…to here:

moonrise:

Then we found our perfect private beach:

With no bad weather forecast for the next few days, we set up camp:

We swam, explored, enjoyed the beach, and cooked dinner over the fire:


At night these little hermit crabs come out and wander all over the place:

We did some snorkeling around the big coral heads and found these molluscs growing in the coral:

Their colors were so bright:

nice fish too:

…and coral:

…and the grouper come out to see you!

…and the sharks come out to see you!

more to follow!

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Makemo

After spending a few days in Fatu Hiva we set sail for Makemo in the Tuamotus.

Makemo Wiki

The atolls of the Tuamotus are low lying coral rings, quite different from the Marquesas. Makemo, about three miles away:

You need to time your arrival properly, the current in some of the passes can exceed six knots. We arrived just after low tide with the wind behind us. Wind and current going in the same direction meant an easy shot into the atoll. Entering the pass:

Main street looking back toward the town pier:

Makemo, like most of French Polynesia so far in our trip, was very clean and the people are super nice. The atolls are narrow coral rings covered mostly with coconut palms. The main pier and anchorage is about a hundred yards behind us and that tall structure at the far end of the road is the lighthouse at the entrance to the pass. That may give you an idea of how narrow the available real estate is here:

Nice church:

Perimeter road, schools to the right, light house in the distance:

Dinghy dock:

While anchored near the village we did some snorkeling. The water is very clear. We drift snorkeled the pass and could clearly see the bottom in 100 feet of water. …we mainly snorkel in shallower water:

It is easier to spot these in shallow water:

More to follow…

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Catching Up, Fatu Hiva

Hello Again!

We are currently in Papeete, Tahiti after leaving the Marquesas and spending a few weeks in the Tuamotus.

We have a lot to catch up on so here are some pics from the Marquesas…

After spending too much time in Hiva Oa (loved it) we finally had a weather window to head south. We had a wonderful 40 mile sail from Hiva Oa to Hanavavae Bay, Fatu Hiva.

Fatu Hiva, even more dramatic than Hiva Oa. My pictures just don’t convey the beauty of the landscape. Sun-up entering Hanavavae Bay:

Hanavavae Bay (bay of virgins):

If you look at the shoreline under the coconut palms, in the lower center of the picture there is a roundish rock split diagonally in two. This is called Lizard Rock, it’s on the chart. The smaller triangular piece is the lower jaw, the larger rounder piece is the head and if you look closely you can see a third rock jutting up from the lower jaw which forms the tongue.

Dea Latis:

Black volcanic shoreline:

The day after arriving we took a wonderful hike to a nearby waterfall. We had been told the fall was dry but the hike still beautiful so we did it anyway. The hike was about an hour and a half each way, great exercise and wonderful scenery.

mooooo” or…whatever…

Paved road turned to dirt, getting close. Wonderful scenery:

The last quarter mile +/- was quite aggressive:

Once off the obvious path, people erect these little markers to mark the trail:

Through here:

and around/under here:

To here. It poured during the night so there was a trickle of water over the fall. The falling water was warm but the pool below was quite cold:

It was really hot so I had to take a swim:

…foliage:

After a nice swim we hiked back to “town.”

Coconuts are a huge industry in French Polynesia:

Fruit grows everywhere:

Back on paved road, loved the scenery:

After a few days we departed Fatu Hiva and the Marquesas for the Tuamotus.

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Moving On

Still here enjoying Hiva Oa!

We are waiting on what? Yes, weather, again!

We are going to attempt a trip south to Fatu Hiva and then we will move on to Makemo or Fakarava in the Tuamotus.

Right now there is good weather, tomorrow, and when we check tomorrow, the good weather will arrive…tomorrow. We are fairly confident there will actually be fair enough wind to depart late tomorrow.

Until the good wind arrives we will sit here, enjoy the scenery and stuff ourselves on baguettes and cheese!

The island is mountainous and the Polynesian people are very very nice, so if you need a ride just stick out your thumb! Sometimes you don’t even need to stick out your thumb, they just stop. Nothing like a sunny day, fresh baguettes and a ride in the bed of a pick-up!

They have huge grapefruit called pamplemousse, super sweet and tart at the same time. Absolutely delicious and half is about all I can eat at once:

We rented a car and toured most of the island, mainly the north side:

The south side of the island is lush and green:

The north side is quite dry and rocky but still beautiful:

Small villages dot the bays:

Roads cut into the mountains:

Tanya talking me away from the edge of the sheer drop off:

Some of the more rural roads are one way with a drop off of several hundred feet:

Another village in another bay. The entire island is kept up very well, no trash in sight anywhere.

Every village and town has a church:

Lots of these coconut drying tables everywhere:

This was one of our favorite bays, calm clear water, small beach, nice village:

This is the road in/out of the village:

More scenery:

The lower altitudes are lush and green:

When you climb to a certain altitude the tropical foliage is replaced by pine forest, like back in Maine pine forest:

I don’t remember seeing these on the side of the road back in Maine, well not randomly placed by the side of the road…

Lots of beautiful flowers and fruit trees:

We drove to the very east end of the island to see these tikis. This was the site of a very important Marquisan Chief hundreds of years ago. If you had a bunch of tikis evidently you were somebody. The presentation was mostly in French with some poorly translated English:

Dea Latis:

About a dozen of us went to a local youth music and dance presentation at the Culture and Arts Pavilion one night, it was great:

We are enjoying our time here but are anxious to move on. Our plan is to depart tonight for Fatu Hiva and then on to the Tuamotus. Internet is challenging so we will update when we can…

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Hiva Oa

We made it!

…here:

We departed Panama 26 March and arrived Hiva Oa 26 April, 31 days, 4014 miles! Box checked, mic dropped, (slow clap while we exit stage left). LOL!

We had a few days of very light winds as we approached the equator:

Approaching the equator in the middle of the night:

We sailed at least 2000 miles with mizzen and headsail switching to wing on wing for the last 1000 miles:

The last three days of the passage were very uncomfortable with light winds and converging northeast and southeast swells. Our last sunrise on passage:

Whoa:

Whoa again:

Hiva Oa in the distance, what a sight after a month at sea!!!! OMG!!!

Dea Latis anchored in the distance:

Welcome!

View of the far shore from the boat:

Really pretty here:

Black sand beach:

By the time we got anchored it was late so we celebrated, slept and checked in the next morning. We launched the dinghy and caught a ride to town. Checking in with the Gendarmerie (French Police) was super easy.

We did a bit of shopping, walked around a bit and headed back to the boat. We are venturing out tomorrow and will take lots of pics. Tourism office, and Culture and Arts Pavilion:

It’s clean here, the scenery is epic, and the Polynesian people are super nice! Wearing tropical flowers in your hair is not just a thing from the movies!

Internet is super expensive and our Google Fi data is worthless here so we will update when we have opportunity.

Renting a car and touring the island tomorrow. There is a two day celebration Friday and Saturday so that will be nice. We’ll take pics.

I know we have to move on soon but this place is amazing…the anchor feels like it’s digging-in deep….

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